Harbin.
Upon my arrival at Harbin I found that the Chinese were managing their affairs in the town without reference to the Russian authorities, who confined themselves to the oversight of foreigners in the town. It was not until I had been in the hotel for several days that I was asked for my passport instead of immediately on my arrival, as was the case on my last visit; and when I declined to show it on the ground that only the Chinese authorities were entitled to ask for its production, I was not pressed to abandon this attitude.
Although Harbin is in the midst of a big plain, I do not think that it has much chance as a commercial centre until means of communications are greatly improved. The railway rates at present are altogether too high.
Kwangchentze.
From Harbin there is a journey of about ten hours by rail to Kwangchengtze. The Russians pay practically no attention to this part of the railway system, and the accommodation is of the worst possible description. The second and third-class compartments are absolutely impossible. No self-respecting man would consign his dogs to travel on the cars in which I made the journey. I took the night express, leaving Harbin at 9 P.M. and reaching Kwangchengtze at 7 A.M. next day, and reserved an entire first-class coupé in order to enjoy as much comfort as possible. There were no lamps in my compartment, and a wretched dip showed up the darkness for about three-quarters of an hour and then spluttered out.
The Japanese station at Kwangchentze is about one-third of a mile distant from the Russian terminus, but trains from both lines enter each station on a schedule arranged to fit in with each other. From this junction to Mukden the Japanese have put on a comfortable service of cars, though as yet there are no sleeping compartments. The first-class carriages are fitted with comfortably upholstered arm-chairs, and, I understand, sleeping and dining cars are to be introduced shortly.
As far as food is concerned, on this portion of the line one might be travelling through a foreign country. The only food I could obtain was a piece of dirty black Russian bread, fished out by a peasant woman from a fly-ridden cupboard, and a bottle of beer.
One cannot speak in too high praise of the civility and attention shown by the Japanese employés to the traveller throughout the length of this line.
Mukden.
The city of Mukden has wonderfully improved during the past two years. Fine macadamized roads have been laid out, and they are traversed by trams and carriages, which, if they do not compare favourably with Shanghae, at any rate are far ahead of anything to be seen in Vladivostock. Japanese women of the demi-monde class are not nearly as evident as a few years ago, and apparently have almost entirely disappeared. Moreover, Japanese troops and uniforms are seldom to be seen now, whereas a couple of years ago they were ubiquitous. It struck me forcibly that both Japanese and Russians are faithfully carrying out their engagements. Everywhere Chinese police and troops are in evidence as never before, and there seems every indication that the Chinese are now successfully exercising their authority. At Mukden there are several camps prepared on modern lines for the accommodation of foreign-drilled Chinese troops.
Crops.
The crops throughout the length and breadth of Manchuria seem to be extraordinarily good, and the Chinese themselves admit that they are the best that have been experienced for a large number of years. This, in my opinion, will have considerable effect upon the course of trade during the coming year, and unless untoward circumstances arise I think we may properly hope for the first signs of a revival of trade in this northern territory. The country seemed to be perfectly quiet. I noticed a diminution in the number of Japanese traders at the great centres of Manchuria. The hordes that followed in the wake of the war appear to have found that the country is not the El Dorado they believed, and have left the country. One informant told me that the Japanese merchants had withdrawn to smaller centres, but I had no opportunity of confirming this, and am inclined to doubt it.
Dalny.
Dalny is very much the same as when the Russians evacuated it. It suffered no damage at the time of the war, as there was no fighting in the immediate neighbourhood. The Japanese, therefore, occupied a completely-found town, and the well-furnished houses are just as the Russians left them. Of trade, however, there seems to be little or none. Very few steamers call at this port except small Japanese vessels from Chefoo and a few larger craft from Japan and Corea; Russian and Japanese efforts artificially to build up the trade of Dalny, have so far met with little or no success, and I see no reason to alter the opinion I have always held that Newchwang is the natural port for Manchurian trade, and the only natural outlet for its products. In spite of the artificial competition of Dalny, I think Newchwang will maintain its predominant position.
The crops between Newchwang and the Great Wall, if not equal to those of Manchuria, were nevertheless exceedingly good, and the Chinese appeared satisfied with the outlook.
The North China Railways.
I was glad to notice a great improvement in the conditions of railway traffic on the Anglo-Chinese line. From the 1st September the authorities have decided to run night trains for the first time in the history of the railway. Consequently it is now possible to leave Peking in the morning and reach Newchwang the next morning, instead of occupying two days on the journey as heretofore. Indeed, it is now possible to travel from the Chinese to the Manchurian capital in less than twenty-four hours, under exceedingly comfortable conditions. It is interesting to note that when the Tien-tsin-Pukou line is completed it will be possible to travel from Shanghae to Mukden in a little over two days. When one remembers that a few decades ago the journey took the Chinese Mandarins from two to three months it must be taken as a sign that China is really moving.
Amicable Intercourse.
I was pleased to learn from Chinese and foreign officials and others that excellent relations exist between all classes. When Shanghae affairs were discussed one was usually met with the phrase, "Damn Shanghae!" from Chinese and foreigners alike. An intelligent Taotai whom I asked whether he would like to assume the reins of government at Shanghae, said he would not accept the position on any conditions, as in Shanghae Chinese and foreigners were always quarrelling, whilst in North China they had no differences to speak of, and those they had were quickly and amicably settled. The number of Chinese in the North who speak English, and the number of foreigners who can make themselves understood in Chinese, is rapidly increasing, and this leads to more intercourse between the races, and must tend to smooth out difficulties. Shanghae might well learn a lesson from the North in this respect.
The British Minister.
As a Britisher, one cannot but feel proud of our Minister, Sir John Jordan, who is spoken of in the most glowing terms by every one. He has, undoubtedly, brought British prestige to a point it has not attained for a very long period. We are most fortunate in having such a man to administer British interests.
From Peking I travelled by the first through express to go to Hankow since the recent floods. The crops on either side of the line seemed, at any rate, to be up to the average.
Financial Conditions.
One factor in Chinese financial conditions is very disturbing, and that is the almost unlimited issue of bank notes that goes on all over the Empire. I have only heard of one province that has in any sense of the word a proper reserve for this note issue. In other provinces notes are being issued without reserve of any sort or kind, and my Chinese correspondents informed me that in many provinces the Chinese are loath to accept notes, but are more or less compelled to do so.
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Harbin.
Upon my arrival at Harbin I found that the Chinese were managing their affairs in the town without reference to the Russian authorities, who confined themselves to the oversight of foreigners in the town. It was not until I had been in the hotel for several days that I was asked for my passport instead of immediately on my arrival, as was the case on my last visit; and when I declined to show it on the ground that only the Chinese authorities were entitled to ask for its production, I was not pressed to abandon this attitude.
Although Harbin is in the midst of a big plain, I do not think that it has much chance as a commercial centre until means of communications are greatly improved. The railway rates at present are altogether too high.
Kwangchentze.
From Harbin there is a journey of about ten hours by rail to Kwangchengize. The Russians pay practically no attention to this part of the railway system, and the accommodation is of the worst possible description. The second and third-class compartments are absolutely impossible. No self-respecting man would cousign his dogs to travel on the cars in which I made the journey. I took the night express, leaving Harbin at 9 P.M. and reaching Kwangchengtze at 7 A.M. next day, and reserved an entire first-class coupé in order to enjoy as much comfort as possible. There were no lamps in my compartment, and a wretched dip showed up the darkness for about three-quarters of an hour and then spluttered out.
The Japanese station at Kwangchentze is about one-third of a mile distant from the Russian terminus, but trains from both lines enter each station on a schedule arranged to fit in with each other. From this junction to Mukden the Japanese have put on a comfortable service of cars, though as yet there are no sleeping compartments. The first-class carriages are fitted with comfortably upholstered arm-chairs, and, I under- stand, sleeping and dining cars are to be introduced shortly.
As far as food is concerned, on this portion of the line one might be travelling through a foreign country. The only food I could obtain was a piece of dirty black Russian bread, fished out by a peasant woman from a fly-ridden cupboard, and a bottle of beer.
One cannot speak in too high praise of the civility and attention shown by the Japanese employés to the traveller throughout the length of this line.
Mukden.
The city of Mukden has wonderfully improved during the past two years. Fine macadamized roads have been laid out, and they are traversed by trams and carriages, which, if they do not compare favourably with Shanghae, at any rate are far ahead of anything to be seen in Vladivostock. Japanese women of the demi-monde class are not nearly as evident as a few years ago, and apparently have almost entirely disappeared. Moreover, Japanese troops and uniforms are seldom to be seen now, whereas a couple of years ago they were ubiquitous. It struck me forcibly that both Japanese and Russians are faithfully carrying out their engagements. Everywhere Chinese police and troops are in evidence as never before, and there seems every indication that the Chinese are now successfully exercising their authority. At Mukden there are several camps prepared on modern lines for the accommodation of foreign-drilled Chinese troops.
Crops.
The crops throughout the length and breadth of Manchuria seem to be extraordinarily good, and the Chinese themselves admit that they are the best that have been experienced for a large number of years. This, in my opinion, will have considerable effect upon the course of trade during the coming year, and unless untoward circumstances arise I think we may properly hope for the first signs of a revival of trade in this northern territory. The country seemed to be perfectly quiet. I noticed a diminution in the number of Japanese traders at the great centres of Manchuria. The hordes that followed in the wake of the war appear to have found that the country is not
the El Dorado they believed, and have left the country. One informant told me that the Japanese merchants had withdrawn to smaller centres, but I had no opportunity of confirming this, and am inclined to doubt it.
Dalny.
Dalny is very much the same as when the Russians evacuated it. It suffered no damage at the time of the war, as there was no fighting in the immediate neighbour- hood. The Japanese, therefore, occupied a completely-found town, and the well-furnished houses are just as the Russians left them. Of trade, however, there seems to be little or none. Very few steamers call at this port except small Japanese vessels from Chefoo and a few larger craft from Japan and Corea; Russian and Japanese efforts artificially to build up the trade of Daluy, have so far met with little or no success, and I see no reason to alter the opinion I have always held that Newchwang is the natural port for Manchurian trade, and the only natural outlet for its products. In spite of the artificial competition of Dalny, I think Newchwang will maintain its predominant position.
The crops between Newchwang and the Great Wall, if not equal to those of Manchuria, were nevertheless exceedingly good, and the Chinese appeared satisfied with the outlook,
The North China Railways.
I was glad to notice a great improvement in the conditions of railway traffic on the Anglo-Chinese line. From the 1st September the authorities have decided to run night trains for the first time in the history of the railway. Consequently it is now possible to leave Peking in the morning and reach Newchwang the next morning, instead of occupying two days on the journey as heretofore. Indeed, it is now possible to travel from the Chinese to the Manchurian capital in less than twenty-four hours, under exceedingly comfortable conditions. It is interesting to note that when the Tien-tsin- Pukou line is completed it will be possible to travel from Shanghae to Mukden in a little over two days. When one remembers that a few decades ago the journey took the Chinese Mandarins from two to three months it must be taken as a sign that China is really moving.
Amicable Intercourse.
I was pleased to learn from Chinese and foreign officials and others that excellent relations exist between all classes. When Shanghac affairs were discussed one was usually met with the phrase," Danin Shanghae!" from Chinese and foreigners alike. An intelligent Taotai whom I asked whether he would like to assume the reins of government at Shanghae, said he would not accept the position on any conditions, as in Shanghae Chinese and foreigners were always quarrelling, whilst in North China they had no differences to speak of, and those they had were quickly and amicably settled. The number of Chinese in the North who speak English, and the number of foreigners who can make themselves understood in Chinese, is rapidly increasing, and this leads to more intercourse between the races, and must tend to smooth out difficulties. Shanghae might well learn a lesson from the North in this respect.
The British Minister.
As a Britisher, one cannot but feel proud of our Minister, Sir John Jordan, who is spoken of in the most glowing terms by every one. He bas, undoubtedly, brought British prestige to a point it has not attained for a very long period. We are most fortunate in having such a man to administer British interests.
From Peking I travelled by the first through express to go to Hankow since the recent floods. The crops on either side of the line seemed, at any rate, to be up to the average.
Financial Conditions.
In
One factor in Chinese financial conditions is very disturbing, and that is the almost unlimited issue of bank notes that goes on all over the Empire. I have only heard of one province that has in any sense of the word a proper reserve for this note issue. other provinces notes are being issued without reserve of any sort or kind, and my Chinese correspondents informed me that in many provinces the Chinese are loth A Chinese gentleman to accept actes, but are more or less compelled to do so.
no tormin
275
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